. I still use it to this day and find it to be a very nifty addition to the ham shack. HFClock is much, much, much more than just a clock. You can read more about it in that 2022 article. Turns out, you can get the same thing from Inovato on
. They call it the Quadra HamClock bundle. You see, the software author, WB0OEW, actually calls his software HamClock. Inovato packages this on a small Quadra PC for the amazingly low price of $49! You might need a power supply and some cables, or you can buy their bundle. The keyboard is pretty tiny and you'll probably want to use one that you already have. Their products can be found on
. Or, you can build one yourself!
Today, I'm going to walk you through the steps to build your own. It will cost you more than Inovato's product, which by the say, comes bundled with some other software too, but building your own is more fun if you're a builder/tinkerer and you have the flexibility of also loading other software of your choice on it. As I mentioned, Inovato's proudct is built on a
Quadra PC. Veritium's, which costs much more than building your own, is built on a Pi computer. You could of course buy your own Quadra computer and install the software but in this article, I will describe doing it on a Raspberry Pi. Assuming you have some of what you need laying around, you can probably rival the cost of Inovato's product. But if not, it's not going to break the bank.
You'll need a Pi computer. I purchased one from
Adafruit. I decided to get the Pi 4 B with 4 GB of RAM (currently $55). WB0OEW tells me the software will run on 1 and 2 GB Pi units, albeit a bit slower. I also purchased their Model 4553 Flirc Aluminum case ($14.95) and Model 5801 Vertical Wall Power Supply ($5.95). (Note, I have not noticed any increase in RF noise or birdies at my QTH with this "wall wart.") It's a 5 VDC supply with a micro-USB connector; something that you possibly have laying around (I didn't). You will also need a micro-HDMI male to HDMI female adapter so that you can connect an HDMI monitor of your choosing into the Pi. I purchased
this one on Amazon for five bucks. And you will need a micro-SD card (32 GB is what I used), a micro-SD to SD adapter or a micro-SD to USB adapter for programming it.
BTW, you can purchase Pi computers, cases, supplies, etc. from several sources including Gigaparts. I just happened to shop at Adafruit which was one of several online shops suggested to me.
Once you have the hardware on hand, install the Pi computer board into the case using the four included screws, and then install the case cover. Before powering up your new Pi, you'll need to install the operating system (OS) onto the micro-SD card. To do so, download the Raspberry Pi Imager software at
www.raspberrypi.com/software. I'm a Windows guy, so I downloaded the Windows version. If you are installing on Windows or Mac, ignore the blurb on the webpage about installing Raspberry Pi OS using a Terminal window. If you're going to do it on a Linux box, then yes, you would follow that instruction.
Now that you have downloaded and installed the Imager, run it. You will have a window like that to the right. Plug your micro-SD card and adapter into your desktop or laptop where you have installed Imager. In Imager, click on CHOOSE DEVICE and select Raspberry Pi 4 (Models B, 400, and Computer Modules 4, 4S). Next click on CHOOSE OS and select Raspberry Pi OS (64 bit). This will give you a GUI on your new Pi. Next click on CHOOSE STORAGE. You will want to be VERY CAREFUL here and select your micro-SD card. I repeat, be very careful to select your micro-SD card!!! If you inadvertently choose your hard drive or SSD or anything other than the micro-SD card and go forth with imaging, you will erase and overwrite everying on that drive! And you will be hating life! So...if you are using a micro-SD card that you had laying around your shack, be sure it doesn't have some important software or data on it because, yes, everything on that card will be erased and overwritten! Fortunately, Imager will give you a warning before proceeding with imaging. Click NEXT.
The next screen will ask "Use OS customisation?" Click on EDIT SETTINGS. On the GENERAL tab, leave Set hostname unchecked. Check the box "Set username and password." You can use whatever username and password you like. I just chose "Pi" as the username and a relatively easy to remember password. If you are desiring to use your wi-fi, check the box for "Configure wireless LAN." Manually type in your wifi SSID. Then type in your wifi password. Select US for "Wireless LAN country." (This selects the correct wifi frequencies here in the USA.) If you are going to use a CAT5 cable to go directly to your router, you can skip this step and leave "Configure wireless LAN" unchecked. Now check the box for "Set locale settings" and choose America/Los_Angeles for the timezone and US for the keyboard layout. On the SERVICES tab, leave Enable SSH unchecked. On the OPTIONS tab, click any you like. Then click SAVE. This takes you back to the "Use OS customization" window. Click on YES.
Here comes your warning that "All existing data on your storage device will be erased. Are you sure you want to continue?" If you are sure it's your micro-SD vard, click YES. If not, click NO and go back to change to the correct device.
If you are using a USB 2.0 adapter, it's going to take 30-45 minutes to write the Raspberry Pi OS to the micro-SD card. So, take a break and go find something else to do for a while. If you are using a USB 3.0 adapter, it will only take a couple of minutes. (See what a difference a $5 USB 3.0 adapter makes?!)
When finished, Imager will let you know that your micro-SD card is ready to go. Best practices tells us to Eject the card using Windows (icon in the lower right of the task tray). I suspect Mac does the same. If you just yank the card out of the USB slot without Ejecting, you could corrupt the Pi OS and have to start over. So yes, save yourself some grief and actually do the Eject first.
Now you are ready to remove the micro-SD card from your adapter and plug it into your Pi computer. You will find the slot on the opposite end from the USB ports on the Pi. BE SURE THE Pi COMPUTER IS POWERED DOWN before inserting the micro-SD card!
If you haven't already, plug in the power supply, HDMI monitor, keyboard and mouse into the Pi computer. If you are using a CAT5 cable to your router, plug that in as well. Then power up the Pi. It will take 2-3 minutes to boot up and once complete, you will be at the Raspberry Pi OS GUI. If you are using wifi, it should show in the uppper right that you are connected. The upper left will have one or more icons. Hover your mouse pointer on the red raspberry icon. You will see a drop down menu. Click on Accessories and then Terminal. (See image to the left.) This will bring up a terminal window that is reminiscent of Microsoft MS-DOS (remember that?!). This is where you are going to enter the commands to install HamClock.
On your desktop or laptop, go to
https://clearskyinstitute.com/ham/HamClock/. Scroll down a bit and under the screenshot, you will see various tabs. Click on the Desktop tab. Scroll down a bit to where you see "To install HamClock on other UNIX-like systems follow these steps:". Here, you've already done Step 1 on your Pi when you clicked on the raspberry icon and opened a terminal session. Follow Step 2 in that terminal window, entering each line one at a time and pressing ENTER on your keyboard after each line. After you enter the last one, "sudo make install" and press ENTER, your Pi will begin to download the HamClock software and then install it.
When complete, you hopefully got no errors and are ready to go. If you, like me, did see errors reported on the screen, follow the next instructions on the HamClock website, namely "sudo apt-get update" (then press ENTER) and then "sudo apt-get -y install curl make g++ libx11-dev libgpiod-dev" and press ENTER. This will update your Pi OS and various things, and also get a couple of library files required by HamClock.
Now, you should be ready to go. Type "exit" and press ENTER in the terminal window to close it. You should now have a Hamclock icon in the upper left (globe looking thing). Click on that to run it.
On this first running of HamClock, it will prompt you to set some things up, including your call sign, grid square, etc. There are several screens of set up so click through each one, one at a time and configure as you desire. Some fields and pages can be ignored. You can always change the settings later by rebooting and re-entering Setup. When finished configuring, click DONE to save your settings and boot up HamClock.
At this point, you're smiling because you were successful and now have HamClock up and running! But wait. There's more!
At the top of the screen, there are five panels of varying sizes. The left-most has your callsign in it. If you left click on your call (or in the area to the left of your call), you can change the color of the letters in your call. Now left click in the area to the right of your call. This will change the background color around your call.
Now let's modify the next four panels. Left click near the top of each, one at a time. It will bring up a menu of items you can display there. Be sure to click OK after making your selections. If you choose more than one, that panel will rotate through your selections. Modify each panel to your heart's content. And you can change these whenever you like. Rebooting the Pi will not cause them to change back to default. They will remain as you last set them.
You will have a lot of fun learning about the various panel options and the Setup screens, along with other capabilities of this FB software. You can start by clicking on the User Guide tab on the HamClock website on your desktop or laptop. There are also a few YouTube videos out there.
If you get adventurous with your new Pi, you can install and run other software on it. There is a plethora out there, including much ham radio software. You can fool around using this same micro-SD card but what I did was left that one dedicated to HamClock and I use a different micro-SD card for playing around with other ham software. I'm just getting my feet wet with that now.
One more thing. If you look in the upper left-most panel where your callsign is, just below your call is wi-fi strength rotating with the IP address of your Pi. Your router assigned the IP address to the Pi computer and it's likely going to remain static unless you update the firmware of the router. That said, you can use that IP to view your HamClock on any other device in your household using its browser, such as your phone, tablet, desktop or laptop. Just enter that IP address into the browser window! As long as that device is on the same router as your Pi, you'll be able to view the HamClock there. However, you won't be able to click on anything or change the configuration. That needs to be done at the Pi.
You might be asking yourself, "why did NE6I go to the trouble of buying Pi hardware and installing HamClock software when he already owns the Veritium version?" Because I could. Chuckle. No, that wasn't it. I really don't need two HamClocks. I mainly did it for the challenge and also to guide a ham friend who was having trouble with getting his Pi to work with HamClock. If I ever bore of it, I can always sell it or the Veritium but for now, I'm having some fun playing with the new toy.
And I will also leave you with this. There are now Pi 5's on the market though the competition to buy one is fierce. And there are many reports of bugginess so I would suggest sticking with a Pi 4 B for now.
I hope you found this article helpful and entertaining. 73 for now...
less